At 3300m above sea level, Cusco was still way high up in the Andes. All that was about to change however, as we left the city headed west and towards the ocean once more. We had been promised an amazing ride between Cusco and coast, first descending from dizzy heights into low lying jungle before weaving our way to the Nasca desert. It was our route back to the warmth and we were looking forward to it.
Temperatures soon rose as we left the heights of Cusco behind, the jungle grew thicker and its insect inhabitants grew louder. In just a few hours we were in a totally different climate, shedding our alpaca sweaters and cruising along in t-shirts. Once again we were following a river that raged to our side, carving through the earth and blazing our trail, leading us to the ocean.
The route was littered with rock fall, mostly just small rocks requiring some quick reactions but more than once we were forced to a halt as clean up crews set about clearing boulders the size of Volkswagens off the road. Trying to catch up with Frank I rounded a corner to see him laid out on the ground, he had slipped on some loose stones, whipping his Honda’s wheels out from under him, luckily on an inside turn otherwise he would have been off a cliff edge. Characteristically unshaken, Frank dusted himself off and we were soon on our way again.
We twisted through more Peruvian towns dodging rock fall, arbitrary floods and suicidal cows. One cow in particular we accidentally performed a sort of scissor move on, causing it to panic and dart right for me, missing me by inches. The blame fell on Frank for that one but was redeemed with one of my favourite Frank quotes coined later that night “Hey guess what I did today, I crashed my motorcycle and almost killed my friend with a cow!”
After a night in a swanky hotel way out of our budget we once again hit the road, excited to see the desert again. Noticing that the river beside us was actually flowing towards us made it apparent that in fact it was Amazon bound and ultimately a climb was on the cards. Sure enough we were soon weaving skywards. It eventually levelled out to another 5000m plateaux with long straight roads, high winds and Alpaca farms dotted around. We luckily found a petrol station in the form of a guy and his barrel after burning so much fuel on the climb, the plateaux had come as a surprise and we were now also burning daylight.
The confused stares of Alpacas accompanied us as we cruised the plateaux. Every water break we would try and sneak up on the animals for an obligatory photo but could never get close enough, that was until Frank spotted an Alpaca that wasn’t going anywhere. In the grounds of a small farmhouse one family had, moments before, killed one of the animals and were in the process of skinning it in preparation for market. In our broken Spanish we forged a conversation with the family, quite interested in life up here in this place. It was a surreal pit stop but we left with a richer understanding and a rather fetching wool hat.
Vegetation grew sparser as we travelled further west and it was not long until we were cruising along the rim of a canyon surrounded by cacti. Nasca was not far but we knew we had a serious descent before we could get there and sure enough, amidst the fading light, there it appeared way below us. Never wanting to miss a golden opportunity however, we stayed for a fantastic desert sunset.
Unfortunately, like any self-respecting sunset, it was followed by darkness and we were left to join what seemed like a convoy of late arriving trucks all towering over us as we slid in between them like mice under elephant’s feet. Tired and in desperate need of showers we pulled into a dusty Nasca, using the SAG nav system to find a hostel. We cracked some beers and celebrated our return to the coast and the un-escapable Pan-American highway.
Great pictures! Motorcycles terrify me though.
Great photos and story, guys. Keep it up! For the rest of us!
What is it someone once said? “Adventure is Discomfort and Terror Remembered in Repose?”….or something like that…. Love reading about it!
Have you read “Terror on Two Wheels” about a trip to South America with a slight problem in Columbia? Or the very readable dialogues of Peter Egan in “Leanings 1 and 2”?
(Recently rode the Dolomite Alps with one of my sons, and regularly ride to Alice’s Restaurant and Highway 1 in the San Francisco Bay Area. I commute daily by either KLR650 or BMW R1150RT from San Jose, CA to Morgan Hill. Not nearly as exciting as Peru, but always fun, never the less. And somewhat more comfortable. Ride on!)
Thanks! Fantastic quote too, who said that? Can’t say I’ve read those books but ill have a search for them now you mentioned it. It’s a bit Cli-“Che” (bad pun) but motorcycle diaries was read a few times on the way, as well as Giant steps by Karl Bushby, fantastic book. Im thinking of riding to Alaska, do you think a 125 could make it up there?
Eavesdropping. Yes, you could make it on a 125. Should you ever do so, you would have a free place to bunk, or just do laundry, as you pass through in exchange for a few good stories from some folks with bikes who appreciate a sense of adventure.
Thanks for Eavesdropping, ha ha. I hope to head on up there, seems like Bogota isn’t quite far enough, Fairbanks though, that has a nice ring to it. Thanks for your words before, encouraging to say the least and thankyou for the offer of a bunk, I hope you know that penny pinching travel riders such as Frank and I would totally hold you to that.
There is about 480 miles of “bad” road north of Fairbanks if you are going all the way up but sometimes it’s not so bad at all.
I used to see Karl almost every day for months on end up in Fairbanks. He was a fun guy to chat with. He was always in the coffee shop I went to while he was waiting for Russian visas, permits, equipment, funds, etc…
Alaska is great. You should totally check it out.
Thats really cool man, he’s kind of a hero, I would love to meet the guy.
My plan as it stands is to ride to Fairbanks and (if you live in Alaska you may think this is lame) trek the stampede trail and see the magic bus from into the wild, what do you think? Though that “bad” road sounds tempting, nothing better than a challenge like that.
Thanks for the comment man
Chris
Amazing travel pictures. But the last two are stunning and beautiful. Brilliant 🙂
thanks so much
Beautiful photos! Was there something you saw that you missed capturing with your camera?
Thankyou so much. The continent is stunning though so it’s hard to point the camera anywhere and not capture its beauty. That said, totally missed a shot of Frank on the floor after his crash, that would have been golden!
Wow, beautiful photos!
Thankyou so much
OK I want to be THERE. Glad you didn’t lose vs. the cow. Beautiful post!
Absolutely amazing photos!
Beautiful pictures. I hope to cross South America off of the “Continents I’ve been to” list very soon. Congrats on a journey well spent. 🙂
great pictures
Well that was some journey! Great pics – quite amazing colours all around and looks pretty cold most of the time. Thanks for sharing this journey – enjoyed it very much
Excellent. I’d like to visit Peru one day. I’m living in Colombia and you can enjoy a lot of paradise places too!
Oh I absolutely love Colombia, I live here in Bogota now and am trying to see as much of the country as I can, love it so far
Looks like a great adventure!
Great stuff on the motorbikes.
Amazing adventures. Reminds me of a scene in Motorcycle Diaries when they drove into a ditch. Oh and Guevara also had his moment of epiphany in Machu Picchu. 😉
Congrats on being Freshly Pressed!
Great story and awesome pics! Thanks for sharing! 😀
“We must go beyond textbooks, go out into the by paths and untrodden depths
of the wilderness and travel and explore and tell the world of the glories of our
journey.”
I don’t know who said this, but I read it on the UER website. I think it seems
appropriate. That and Tolkien’s “Roads go Ever on” comes to mind. Breath
taking.
This clearly, is what mortorcycles are for. Keep up the good work and check
out my site for some links to eerie sound sculptures and some art cows that
won’t wander into traffic.
Gorgeous…just look at that sunset! And the opening pic is stunning. A river that looks like it might just sweep us all away…
I am not a big fan of motorcyles and the cow pic reminds me one of the reasons why. Thanks for sharing & Congrats on being FP!
COWWWWW!!!!!!!!!! I LOVE COWS!!!!!:D
awwww:o) That was beautiful! Thank you for sharing:)
Awesome post! Looks like you had a brilliant time in Peru! Must be great to get out there on your own steam! I traveled through the region as a backpacker – confined to the bus trail – would love to get out there and experience it the way you did! Something to look forward to!
awesome pictures. nice story. thank you for sharing. it’s stories like this that inspire us to do something similar. having fun and taking pictures at the same time.
You moved me with these images!!!!!!!!! I need to go have a smoke and pour a drink and then come back to them – I feel high from the first view!! Great work.
They have a like button – for your images – I need a “Overjoyed” button!!
ha ha, wow man, thanks so much
Man, I would love to do something like that! Ever since I saw the Motorcycle Diaries I have been interested in biking through South America…but I think I would actually like to cycle through, I think that would be just as interesting (and maybe a little cheaper), but thanks for the great pictures! Congrats on being fresh pressed!
Thanks so much, I actually saw and met a lot of cyclists doing that, they always gave us the hate looks as we cruised past them whilst they were struggling up these punishing andean angles.
It’s like traveling with the author. Very well written and awesome photographs. Thanks for sharing a wonderful path.
Great stuff, very envious! Keep the posts coming 🙂
photos are amazing..nice article..
The pictures do not need words at all, they tell the story perfectly
I enjoyed this post a lot
Thanks for that
-Ron
wow it looks such a nice trip and pictures are awesome
Great Post !!!
great pics
The last picture is awesome.. Great photos
wow…. great pics …….
great! that’s why i like traveling too.. 🙂
What a trip that must have been!
Some great photos as well
Beautiful place with great photo, amazing.
EPic, looks like an amazing thing to do.
Enjoyed travelling through Peru (vicariously) with you!! . . . Fascinating scenes!
http://arabianmusings.wordpress.com/
What a trip! I spent a couple months in Cusco by myself a couple of years ago. I’d like to go back and do something like this with my wife.
Great pictures bro, looks like you’re having a blast! enjoy the experience 🙂
Absolutely wonderful photographs. What a trip.
Love these pictures and the alpaca is so cute!
Thank you for sharing your photos! It’s fun to live vicariously through other bloggers who travel to different places. Hope you have a nice weekend! 🙂
Ah, thanks a lot. You too
Nice roads to drive 🙂
What an interesting trip and photos. Glad I stopped by.
Me encantó. Fué como haber viajado junto a Ustedes.!!!!
Great post. Definitely an interesting read. Check this site out.
NHL 12 tips, strategies and team reviews.
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I am so jealous. I want to ride through Peru so desperately. I have been recovering for over 4 months now from high siding from my Ducati and breaking my ankle, however. I have metal throughout my entire ankle now. I hope to be back on a bike and not crashing as harshly if ever again. Best of luck to you!
Ouch man, sounds painful! you gotta love Ducatis though. I had a spill too, gonna write about it in a couple of posts time, luckily I came off ok. Best of luck to your recovery, hope your ankle can still whip though those gears ok (or break that monster down from 150) You should definitely do Peru, great place to ride
awesome pictures.. and what an interesting piece!! 😀
Holy cow! This was an interesting blog, and great pictures! Great blog post!
poor sheep… 😦
Your pics are inspirational. No if I can just get my kids out of the house, I’ll be on my way!!
Thanks! ha ha, best of luck with that!
Cool pictures! I wen’t to Peru a few years ago and it was definitely an unforgettable experience, I can imagine that going by motorcycle would be even more amazing!
Wishlist trip!! Wicked photos!
Wow! Interesting and pretty photos!
an awesome and epic adventure. I am feeling a great deal of sympathy for the Alpaca 😦
Great photos, really unique 🙂
Wonderful! I’ve just added what you just did to my Bucket List!
Thanks, That’s so cool, I hope you get to do it one day.
Photographers are everywhere. But photographers who tell a story are priceless. You are the latter – a truly talented photographer who tells a story. Thanks for sharing!
Thankyou so much, your comment has really cheered me up
inspiring and excitement-producing, well-written and colorful. so glad that you get to do this!
Enjoy the trip, there’s amazing people all around !
The Andean Cordillera is one of the most beatiful places over the world, I’ve made a similar trip at the 90’s ( Potosí, Oruro, Uyuni, La Paz, Cuzco, Ollanta…etc ), please you should stay one day at least at Copacabana on the shore of Titicaca Lagoon.
Best regards from Spain, Gabriel ( an uruguayan born living at Barcelona )
You’re absolutely right, beautiful places, we actually rode through most of those and I covered them in my previous posts, I remember Copacabana being very beautiful.
That river is unreal
125cc’s — that may actually be brilliant. Haven’t read the whole blog yet, but will do. Great pics & commentary.
I really enjoyed reading this post and looking at these great photos! Congrats on being Freshly Pressed
Love the pictures, especially the llamma shot! 🙂
inspiring and excitement-producing, well-written and colorful. so glad that you get to do this!
Beautiful photos! Was there something you saw that you missed capturing with your camera?
Thankyou so much. I missed Frank lying on the floor with his bike beside him after the crash, that would have been a great shot.
photos are amazing..nice article
Wow guys these photos are awesome and sounds like a helluva adventure , thanku for sharing 🙂
Such an intimate form of travel. Exposed, in so many ways. What a lovely chance to have happened upon your blog. Thank you for dreaming. And for sharing. Makes me miss riding and the smell of gasoline and rain. Peace.
what kind motorcycle?
It’s a Suzuki GN125H, there is a tab at the top with a page all about it, in fact…
Great story, marvelous photographs!
The cow reminded me of last summer when my boyfriend and I nearly died because of it. At least in both our cases nothing bad happened and all we can do is just laugh about it.
Thumbs up! 🙂
Thanks! They seriously are dangerous right
Excellent photos & really enjoyed reading your story. Thanks for sharing 🙂
I like the motorcycle and cow pic, it’s so funny.
An awesome blog…couldn’t stop reading and enjoying your excellent photography. Looking forward with anticipation to the rest of the trip! Congrats on the well-deserved FP!
Thanks so much, Ill keep up the posts
Where did you start your trip and where did you buy or rent the motorcycles? It looks like you are having a great trip!!
I did a bike trip last year in northern India and had a blast. Seeing your blog is an inspriation. I have always wanted to ride SA, so seeing your great pics wets the traveling appetite again. thanks
Frank and I bought the bikes in Santiago from the Chilean classifieds,legally its the best place to buy a bike in South America, Argentina for example makes you wait a year before you can leave the country.
Did you ride Ledakh? On an Enfield? because that is firmly on my list, absolutely. I wanna buy an Enfield and ride it home to London. Did you blog about your trip?
Im glad I could inspire you, makes it worthwhile.
Chris
Incredibile! Great job!
wow! that’s a beautiful landscape… i love your snapshot of the alpaca and the woman.
some adventure you had there… congrats on being freshly pressed! 🙂
That was some Adventure!
What an adventure! Lucky you weren’t killed by the cow!
Great Blog i come again to your blog …..:)
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Ive ridden from Nj to Daytona and from NJ to CA and back, and from these pictures it looks like you have a killer time.
there truly is no better way to spend your time.
Ride Free