Frank met Wara on a night out just before I had left for a week in Bogota. While I was away he had left the hostel and stayed with her while the pair tracked down some decent motorcycles in Santiago. Half Bolivian, half Chilean, Wara was, at the time, an unemployed psychologist and spoke better English than either of us spoke Spanish and so she became our Santiago guide. She had a soft spot for Frank, just like they all did, but neither Frank nor I would quickly forget what she did for us.

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